Settling into our beachside settee, we should have known better than to order sashimi that had been sweltering all afternoon in plus thirty-degree Cape Town heat. At the time, it seemed like the perfect match alongside bottles of top South African Chenin Blanc, dining al fresco with million-dollar views of the Atlantic Ocean. It wasn’t until we were midway through our long-haul flight back to Vancouver that we realized our salmonella slip-up.

A queasy end to an eye-opening tour, but bad stomachs aside, the rest of the experience perfectly captured the modern sensibilities with incredibly picturesque landscapes and amazing diversity, and South African wine.

South Africa is the most ruggedly handsome wine country in the world. It is also perhaps one of the least understood. There are reasons for this. Although its winemaking history dates back hundreds of years, it’s not contained in the European bastion of Old World winemaking countries. Then again, neither is it easily grouped into the pubescent pack of New World wine regions. More recently, South Africa’s tumultuous political past has had an impact. Apartheid still leaves a bad taste, never mind economic sanctions that simply kept bottles off our shelves. Even since the democratic elections in 1994, the South African section of the liquor store seems to have remained off the beaten path for many wine drinkers. Now, while value is riding high and selection is on the rise, is the time to get to know South African wines.

On our wine safari, we found the variety and diversity of wines staggering. Time and time again, we were introduced to wines that spanked of Bordeaux upbringing with their Old World sensibilities. But then, just as we were getting visions of the Gironde, a massive Shiraz smacked around our palates, reminding us that South Africa could strut in the new world too. Big, jammy, tooth-staining monsters would lurk in the bottles. The only remedy, of course, was to quickly drink a glass of deliciously bracing Sauvignon Blanc – an up-and-coming specialty of the Winelands.

We would be remiss if we neglected a shout out to South Africa’s main red and white grapes. Pinotage, a variety conceived in Stellenbosch, continues to find fans (and a few foes) with its quirky, sometimes leathery, sometimes downright stinky characteristics. South Africa is also undergoing a Chenin Blanc renaissance. A number of winemakers have rediscovered this hearty vine, which was traditionally planted in droves to supply South Africa’s considerable brandy production. An inventory of old vines has led to some stunning Chenins easily able to compete on the world stage.

While the wines are going through major change, the wine industry is also significantly transitioning. With a focus on sustainable development, South Africa became the first country in the world to introduce industry-wide standards for promoting sustainable grape growing and winery practices through its Biodiversity and Wine Initiative, while the Wine Industry Ethical Trade Association represents an attempt to improve the working conditions of wine industry workers by implementing fair trade practices in the production and supply chain. The Black Economic Empowerment program, aimed at improving the social economy with goals of inclusion and ensuring economic gain, is also being incorporated into winery business practices.

These are exciting times for South African wine, not to mention a great time to be enjoying the wines first-hand. The focus on progression and promising quality in the bottle is commendable. We only hope that South Africa’s growth as a wine region leads to more wines within handy reach at BC Liquor Stores. We’ll eat sushi with Chenin Blanc in Vancouver any day – while we patiently wait for the next opportunity to visit South Africa’s Winelands.

Here’s what we tasted on our South African wine safari:

Graham Beck Brut: Let’s hear it for Cap Classique, South Africa’s answer to France’s Champagne. Made in the same traditional style, thankfully, we get Graham Beck’s excellent example on our shelves, a rich and elegant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay blend with aromas reminiscent of lemon meringue pie and a pleasant mineral finish.

Nederburg Sau vignon Blanc: The best place to enjoy this zippy SB would be on top of Table Mountain watching the sun set into the sea, but we’ll settle for the next best locale: any local patio or backyard. Year in and year out, Nederburg delivers a white that is citrusy (grapefruit), crisp (bell pepper) and easy on the pocketbook.

KWV Cat hedral Cellar Chardonay: The venerable wine co-operative KWV delivers at all price points, with the Cathedral Cellar line always stacking good fruit. Its recently released Chardonnay is no wimp, packed with heady aromas of bruised apples, vanilla and butterscotch. Full-flavoured, full-bodied and generous with the oak, this is the wine for anyone who likes a “modern-classic” approach to the grape.

Beyerskloof Pinotage: Pinotage is a uniquely South African grape, created in 1925 by Professor Perold of Stellenbosch University when he cross-pollinated Pinot Noir and Cinsault to produce a hearty hybrid ripe for African vineyards. The resulting wine is, to be diplomatic, full of character. Wine drinkers tend to love it or leave it, but when handled with passion, such as Beyerskloof’s, you get a delightfully robust wine showing smoke, plum, and leather.

Winds of Change Pinotage Shira z: Pointing to South Africa’s future, this organic-farmed, fairly traded bottle is produced by a wine company participating in the Black Economic Empowerment program, with a percentage of profits directly funding community development in the village of Sonop. The wine inside is light and easygoing, a fruity red showing black cherry and licorice. Chill it lightly for a great mid-week, conscientious sipper and drink to change!

Excelsior Padock Shiraz: Shiraz takes well to the hotter vineyard sites in South Africa, where it can yield wine of rich and powerful fruit. Excelsior’s boasts loads of prune and black cherry melded with dark chocolate and toasty oak. Bold but nicely balanced, this is a wine to take the chills out of an early spring evening – preferably served alongside a big roast!

On our wine sa fari, we found the variet y and diversit y of wines sta ggering. Time and ti me agai n, we we re introduced to wines that spanked of Bordea ux upbringing.

Saxenburg Guinea Fowl: The history of Saxenburg Wines dates back to 1693, showing just how old a wine region South Africa really is. The winery’s Guinea Fowl is a serious Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz blend that carries Old World structure with New World drinkability. Decant this beauty and you’ll be treated to wafts of cherry pits and leather bomber jackets.

De Toren Fusion V: “A fusion of five noble varieties,” as the back label states, De Toren’s flagship red is a quintessential Bordeaux-like blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Indeed the latest vintage, 2004, would give a number of notable Bordeaux bottles of twice the price a run for their money. Chocolate covered coffee beans, currant, blackberry, this well-balanced wine will age, but is drinking nicely now.