By Kasey Wilson
“Fresh” seems to be the operative word in Dale MacKay’s vocabulary. Fresh ingredients locally sourced, fresh ideas for the plate accented by flavours of his world travels, fresh from winning Canada’s Top Chef on Food Network Canada and a fresh, new restaurant to showcase his talents. And formidable talents they are. At times, called to task during the Top Chef competition for being too complicated, Dale refused to dumb down his dishes, demonstrating that even down-home cooking can be done with a little panache.
He stood his ground in front of the regular and guest judges alike, no mean feat when he was facing more foes than friends in the hot seat. It gave him a bit of a reputation as a hot head when it came to defending his cooking. But when your training includes being a protege to everybody’s favourite jet-setting bad-boy chef Gordon Ramsay, opening restaurants in Tokyo, London and New York, spending seven years in hell’s kitchen before taking over the reins as executive chef at Daniel Boulud’s Lumiére, confidence and passion for the craft is not an issue.
Not bad for a boy from Saskatoon. I sat down with Chef Dale MacKay at his downtown Vancouver restaurant “ensemble” for an afternoon chat and the challenge to make bannock bread taste better than it looks. On that note, let it be known that his rosemary bannock turns something utilitarian into something exquisite. In a sense, it’s a metaphor for this chef’s creativity, turning the everyday into something otherworldly.
At 30, you’ve travelled and worked in some of the world’s culinary capitals under some of the most influential chefs and restaurateurs. Any thoughts on this training and how it has helped you grow as a chef?
I’ve been fortunate to work in Tokyo, London and New York and be part of teams that opened Gordon Ramsay’s restaurants in those cities, followed by training under Daniel Boulud. I’ve had the best of both worlds working with these accomplished chefs. From Ramsay, I learned diligence and responsibility for all aspects of the restaurant and working for Boulud taught me the finer points of hospitality and understanding the front of the house. It was like going to finishing school.
Well, fresh from your win on Top Chef Canada, I imagine the attention must have skyrocketed and really put you in the public eye. Are you ready for life after the show?
Oh, absolutely. My restaurant, ensemble, was already up and running before I ever did Top Chef but I have to say, since winning, I’ve been seeing a whole new demographic coming into the restaurant. Some out of curiosity, some because they love food, some because they want to judge for themselves and all of that’s okay. I always think chefs forget that we’re not rock stars. We’re in the hospitality industry and it’s about creating the best food, using the best product at the best price point and making people feel special about their dining experience.
Do customers ask for any dishes from the show?
All the time. The two most popular are the black cod with Thai broth and the Dungeness crab spiced melon soup. I have a real fixation with spices these days and although I’m still staying with French techniques, I feel we’re offering an intriguing range of flavour profiles to really make the dishes unique.
Where is ensemble going and where do you want to go personally in the culinary world?
I would hope that the restaurant continues to be what I believe it already is, which is an inspired place to drop in for well-constructed flavours and plates in a contemporary but casual setting. I’m of the philosophy that catering to locals is the key to longevity in the restaurant trade. I don’t mind if people come in wearing a ball-cap and shorts, sit at the bar and chat to our great bartender, Chris Cho, while they eat. You can spend 45 minutes here having a bite to eat or two hours on a multi-course menu. I want a big-city feel with lots of fun and good food without the fussiness surrounding most high-end restaurants. As for where I would like things to go, I’ve been fortunate enough to work for some very successful restaurant groups and in my own way, I’d like to emulate that business model. I have another location in mind currently and a more casual concept but the food will always be refined, that’s just my style. I promise there’ll never be any lame ducks on the menu. Plus, my staff are like my family, many of them having been with me for a long time and building a multi-layered group of restaurants will allow me to open up opportunities for them and have them to grow with me. We’re a team and
I just want everyone to do well and achieve the dreams they’ve worked so hard for in this business.
On a family note, your son Ayden is nine and I wonder what it’s like in the Top Canadian Chef household when you two guys kick back to dine?
You know, we have this thing we call Monday Madness where we cram in a couple of movies, usually really sarcastic and wacky comedies like Will Ferrell stuff and order your everyday take-out pizza. I like Hawaiian, extra cheese and Ayden is big on pepperoni.
Really? Everyone thinks you’re such a high-end guy. What’s your idea of comfort food?
That’s the fault of the show, really. I like my fine dining, but my ultimate comfort food is still sauerkraut and pork. Maybe it’s my Saskatchewan upbringing. But I also love Vietnamese and Thai food. Ayden and I like to hit La Buca restaurant for pasta, but in the middle of the night, it’s still a bowl of Cap’n Crunch for me.
Any wines you like to match with that?
Well, I don’t know if Cap’n Crunch pairs with anything, but the local Tantalus Riesling would go great with sauerkraut and pork. My go-to wines these days are from the smaller British Columbia wineries and I’m also pouring them at ensemble. Though we have an international list, I’m fond of Tantalus and the wines from Silkscarf in the Okanagan.
So, what will the future bring for Dale MacKay?
I envision my restaurant growing as I continue to grow as a chef because just when I think I’ve learned everything, along comes something new to intrigue me. I believe my curiosity and knowledge will translate into a strong restaurant group and my unique style and flavour profiles will continue to draw customers. As well, becoming a self-taught chef after dropping out of school at a young age, I want to give back to the community. I’m proud of my work with the Boy’s Club Network initiated by my friend, Walter Mustapich at Templeton Secondary School helping at-risk male youth. There’s also the Culinary Arts Program at Templeton. I’ve helped in the mentoring process and this year, the programs are reaching out to three or four other schools and I’m looking forward to playing an integral role in their creation. Cooking taught me confidence, passion, responsibility and gave me an identity. I wouldn’t be where I am today if chefs like Gordon Ramsay hadn’t take a chance on me. I feel I can do the same for other budding cooks and I brought Dusty out to work with the kids. (Dusty Gallagher is chef of Grace restaurant in Toronto and a co-competitor from Top Chef Canada.)
So, is it fair to call you Vancouver’s most eligible bachelor?
Hey, you wouldn’t get any argument from me.
