By Daenna Van Mulligen
They are the custodians of the wine lands down under – those who have made a commitment to tradition and to future generations. They are a group of twelve who share a common goal and a combined 1,200 years of winemaking experience.
They are called Australia’s First Families of Wine (AFFW). Launched in 2009, the mission of AFFW is to engage and educate wine drinkers around the world on the uniqueness of Australian wine and the diverse character of her many wine regions.
These are all family-owned wineries, which range in age from 25 to a very impressive 160 years old.
Earlier this year, Australia’s First Families of Wine made an inaugural visit to Vancouver to share their stories and their wines.
Brown Brothers
Taking advantage of a burgeoning wine industry in Victoria, Australia’s smallest state, a young man by the name of John Francis Brown established Brown Brothers in 1885. Despite some overwhelming hurdles including years of drought and a plague of grasshoppers, the company flourished. John Francis’ son John Charles joined his father in 1934 and became known as a pioneer of Victorian wine. Four generations later, the family continues their legacy in Heathcote and King Valley.
Campbells
In 1870, Scottish immigrant and gold miner John Campbell founded Campbells in Rutherglen, Victoria. The winery’s original cellar, built in 1885, has been enlarged but still stands, a testament to John’s vision. Fourth generation winemaker Colin Campbell and his viticulturist brother Malcolm guide their inheritance along in its fifth and sixth generation.
d’Arenberg
The Art of Being Different is d’Arenberg’s appropriate mission statement. From their iconic red stripe label and colourful wine names, to the avant-garde fourth generation winemaker Chester d’Arenberg Osborn, they are deliciously different. In 1912, teetotaler and horse racing enthusiast Joseph Osborn and his son Francis purchased vineyard land in McLaren Vale. Francis’ son d’Arry Osborn took the reins in 1957 and redesigned the d’Arenberg label adding its distinctive red stripe.
De Bortoli
Italian immigrants Vittorio and Giuseppina De Bortoli established their namesake winery near Griffith, New South Wales in 1928. Coming from a culture of food and wine, Vittorio began making wines to reflect his personal tastes. Vittorio’s son Deen expanded the company to regions in Victoria and led the company into a new era of winemaking. Today the third generation and Deen’s wife Emeri manage De Bortoli.
Henschke
In the 1860s, German immigrant Johann Christian Henschke and his son Paul Gotthard planted vines in the Barossa Hills with a goal to make wine for the family. Following generations expanded Henschke’s vineyards, which included the iconic parcel known as the Hill of Grace. Fifth generation winemaker Stephen Henschke, his viticulturist wife Prue and their three children now continue the legacy.
Howard Park
In 1986, John Wade, the founding owner of Howard Park, came to Western Australia and established vineyards in the Great Southern region believing, “I don’t know any other region where you can produce both Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon as premium wines.” Current owners Amy and Jeff Burch purchased land in Margaret River in 1988 and, with their grown children, now make Howard Park wines from both Western Australia regions.
Jim Barry
In 1959, Jim Barry and his wife Nancy established their namesake company. Over the years, Jim, Nancy and their sons increased their vineyard holdings, thereby cementing Jim Barry as the Clare Valley’s most respected winery. Although founding pioneer Jim has passed away, Nancy, her sons and three grandchildren continue his work.
McWilliam’s
Irish immigrant Samuel McWilliam planted his first vineyard in southern New South Wales in 1877. His son John James followed in his footsteps and cultivated his family’s destiny by building the Hanwood Estate winery in Riverina. Today, McWilliam’s Hunter Valley Mount Pleasant winery is renowned for its elegant Lovedale Semillon wines and the sixth generation of McWilliam’s is helping to produce wine throughout Australia.
Tahbilk
Named for the Australian aboriginal word meaning “place of many waterholes,” Tahbilk was established in 1860 by Melbourne businessman John Pinney Bear. After Bear’s death in 1889 the estate fell into decline and was not revitalized until Reginald Purbrick purchased it in 1925. Despite fluctuating times, Reginald’s son Eric was the driving force behind Tahbilk until his son John took over. Now, three generations of Purbrick’s tend to Tahbilk’s old vines in the Nagambie Lakes region of Victoria.
Taylors/Wakefield
A love of Bordeaux wine prompted Sydney businessman Bill Taylor to purchase 178 hectares in Clare Valley, Australia in 1969. The rich terra-rossa soil is the bed of an ancient sea, littered with fossilized seahorses. To him, it seemed a perfect place to plant Cabernet vines. Today, Bill Taylor Jr. and his three sons are at the helm.
Tyrrell’s
In the Hunter Valley in 1858, English immigrant Edward Tyrrell settled and established Tyrrell’s Wines. Since then, the family has increased their holdings to include vineyards in South Australia’s McLaren Vale and Limestone Coast regions and to Heathcote in Victoria. Fourth generation Bruce Tyrrell manages Tyrrell’s Wines with his three children.
Yalumba
It seems unimaginable that Samuel Smith knew when he planted his Barossa Valley vines by moonlight in 1849, that his legacy would endure for more than 160 years and six generations. It has and Yalumba is now the oldest family-owned winery in Australia, home to one of the largest viticulture nurseries and the only winery cooperage in the country.
These choice Australian wines may be in limited supply. To avoid disappointment, find available products from these families via the www.bcliquorstores.com website, download our free iPhone App or call your local BC Liquor Store for availability in your area.
Here is a selection of products from these families that are available in stores.
yalumba was the first to commercially plant Viognier in the Barossa Valley in 1980. For many, this wine was first taste of the variety. aromas of peach melba, lime oil and honey translate to a lush, concentrated palate of tropical fruit and exotic spices.
The Tahbilk vineyards are home to some of the world’s oldest Marsanne vines and this wine exemplifies the winemaker’s skill in tending to this rhône variety. Aromas of lemons, honeycomb and white blossoms lead to a lively palate with a creamy, slightly oily texture.
Fun and fizzy, this pastel pink Moscato presents musky aromas of orange blossoms, white raisins, apricots, honey and candied citrus peel. it has a pleasant, sweet palate with a light mousse that makes it a perfect aperitif.
this very approachable Cabernet offers aromas of blackcurrant, vanilla and chocolate with a hint of minty herbs. there is supple, juicy fruit on the palate and trailing flavours of tobacco and spiced cocoa across the finish.
