There is a popular Sicilian saying, “Everything must change so that everything can stay the same.” Sicilians readily reference the words, which first appeared in the pages of Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa’s renowned novel The Leopard. There is an enticing uniqueness to Sicily, woven into this exotic island by a historical melange of Greek, Arabic and Norman influences (to name just a few) that create a distinct Sicilian culture evident in its people, architecture and cuisine.
Certainly this proud foundation will remain no matter the change. However, with apologies to Signor Tomasi, while the wines of Sicily are certainly undergoing significant change it is quite unlikely that they will stay the same, which is a great evolution for wine drinkers. Despite the extroverted emotions, opinions and flavours found throughout Sicily, the island’s wines have in modern times been rather anonymous. There is no shortage of wine produced in this sun-drenched agricultural paradise; indeed Sicily has the most acreage dedicated to vineyards of Italy’s 20 regions. Lakes worth of wine are produced, it’s just that much of the juice typically gets shipped off in bulk to other parts of Italy and further afield. There has always been Marsala, of course, or at least Marsala has been internationally known since its introduction to England in the late 18th century as a substitute to French wines that dried up thanks to England’s war with France. But beyond Sicily’s famous fortified, aside from a handful of established wine estates – notably Tasca d’Almerita’s Regaleali, Corvo’s Duca di Salaparuta and Planeta – until the 1990s the wine picks were rather slim.
However, everything must change and an evolution amidst Sicily’s vineyards is well underway. A crop of new wineries keen to put a face on Sicilian wine has proliferated, backed by an influx of investment from local concerns, northern Italian wine companies and foreign wine companies alike, relishing the possibilities for quality wine from Sicily. Across the island, new vines are sprouting and old grape-growing sites are being reinvigorated, providing diverse pockets for winemakers to work from. Though the geographic location of Sicily, off the southernmost “toe” of Italy, lends itself to a sunny, hot and dry climate overall, the island, the largest in the Mediterranean Sea, is home to both mountain ranges and sandy beaches. The landscape morphs from sun-parched cactus groves to rich volcanic loam, providing a myriad of hillside slopes and microclimates for wine grapes.
Interestingly, the growing international attention and appreciation for Sicilian wines was initially thanks to grapes like Syrah and Chardonnay. Plantings of these globalized cultivars thrive in Sicily’s congenial grape growing conditions and many wine bottles from Sicily are showing up on shelves sporting labels with widely-recognized grape names. That said, change is never linear and, as interest in Sicilian wine gains momentum, there has been a circling back to the island’s indigenous grape varieties.
Of these, Nero d’Avola has emerged as Sicily’s star. Whether bottled alone or blended with Syrah, Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon, it is the heart of the majority of Sicily’s dark-coloured, rich-flavoured reds. But be on the lookout for spicy Nerello Mascalese and tart, fresh Frappato too. For Sicily’s white wines, Catarratto is by far the most significant grape, not least because it is a fixture in Marsala. However, there is excitement surrounding nutty and aromatic Inzolia, as well as rich Grillo. The grape names might not yet roll off the tongue with familiarity, but count on seeing more of these unique wines in years to come.
While reds and whites dominate the current excitement in Sicilian wines, it’s also certainly worth uncorking the island’s fortified and dessert wines. In westerly, windswept Marsala, the “port of God” (from Marsah-el-Allah), there is renewed care in upping quality to overcome Marsala’s misplaced congruence with mere cooking wine. And though they are rarer to come by, there is no forgetting the sumptuous sweet wines of Malvasia delle Lipari or the sensuous semi-dried Passito di Pantelleria, whose remote volcanic outcrop of an island creates a vineyard setting without compare throughout the world’s wine regions.
Perhaps then, the more things change the more they really do stay the same. Sicily’s vineyards flourished during Greek civilization, its wines were widely exported and said to influence the viticulture of mainland Italy. It's true the wines of Sicily today differ dramatically from those of yore, but the key to wine enjoyment remains constant: to find wines full of flavour and character that capture a sense of where they are from. Sicily truly is like no other place and it’s a great time to celebrate the wines that bottle this spirit.
Try these Sicilian wines for a taste of the Island of Wine:
One hundred percent Nero d’Avola. Unoaked. Unfiltered. Full of character. This is robust Sicilian wine at its purest, full of bold blackberry fruit and savoury herbs. Get the bistecca on the grill.
Bold and punchy, this is smoky leathery Syrah at its most brooding! It’s a big Italian wine that calls for big flavours. Think roast lamb or aged cheese.
Marsala is much more than cooking wine! As proof, pick up a bottle of this Marsala Superiore and marvel at its nutty, caramel nuances. Great served neat or on the rocks as an aperitif.
Peach and almond aromas abound in this fresh, fruity Pinot Grigio. Serve wellchilled as a crisp foil to fried arancini risotto balls.
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Pinot Noir are the four grapes in the “Quattro” blend; it's a smooth, stylish red right at home in its untraditional, equally stylish bottle.
Agrodolce, or sweet-and-sour is a common theme in Sicilian cuisine, so it’s fitting that this indigenous red features ripe cherry fruit balanced by savoury sun-baked earth and a tart, spicy finish.
